15 June 2009 Kursk, Russia

I got up early about 5:00 a.m. and started loading my motorcycle. The receptionist asked me for the key and I told her I will give it to her when I leave and she said ok. The usual four trips up and down the stairs and my bike is loaded. I give the receptionist the key and she gives me a new and updated map of the route out of town. Again she points out the key landmarks to watch for. I said I want to get out of this town with one try and not go in circles. She said “you should be out of town in ten minutes.” I left the hotel at 7:00 a.m. and started to follow the route. I got a little goofed up on one of the curves and ended up meeting the police for the first time. I was driving down a one way street the wrong way and was caught red handed. They pulled me over, found out I didn’t speak any Ukraine and then found out I was an American. He went and got a drivers manual and showed me the road sign for a one way street. We couldn’t communicate so he just let me go. I think it was a public relations maneuver i.e. don’t create bad PR with an American and then he goes back to the U.S. and talks bad of Ukraine. He sure could have pushed the issued if he wanted to. Then God sent me a sign, praise the Lord. A little black car with a Russian license plate and white Russian sticker on the trunk lid. He was going in my direction so I followed him and the route he took. It was exactly the route the receptionist planned out for me. I was on the road to Kursk, Russia. Yeah. One hour later I was at the Ukraine border. I was expecting a more invasive inspection of my motorcycle than I got. They stamped all my paperwork and checked my title to the motorcycle. Everything was in order and they sent me on to the Russian checkpoint. Today I knocked on the Big Bear’s Door. The first guard waved me to come forward and I drove past the red barrier gate. He then told me to move my bike back to behind the red barrier. I almost tipped the bike on top of myself. Smooth move, slick. From the get go I was at the mercy of the Russian border personnel. Once they heard there was an American coming into Russia you could see the conversation spread thru the entire border complex by how far you could hear “American.” Anyway, I made it through three checkpoints ok and then one of the border personnel came over and asked me to sit down. He pushed back the hair behind my ear and with a blue gun, like we use to check temperature on the spindles of our high velocity machines……he either checked my body temperature or put some kind of a invisible mark on me to identify me in case of death or arrest. I don’t know. But they were laughing about it as he walked away. The next checkpoint was where I ran into problems. I didn’t bring any Russian rubles with me so I couldn’t pay for the insurance I needed and the green card on the motorcycle. I told them I had US dollars and Ukraine money. I thought I could change money on the border but I couldn’t. That was bad. After some ups and downs I was finally allowed to pass on into Russia. I would say for the most part everyone was very helpful despite the communication problems we were having. So the road and signs are good and I was motoring right along when I ran into this road construction. I go from black top to crushed rock to deep truck tire ruts in the sand and then I say “nope this is not the way.” I turn around and ride out of the sand almost dumping my bike. I get back to the sign that says to Kursk, Russia, and here comes an old lady and her granddaughter on a bicycle. I asked her about the sign and she says no, go that way. So I follow her directions and decided to ask some guys about the directions to Kursk. They said it’s a perfect road to Kursk. I drew pictures of a dump truck and a bulldozer to indicate road construction. They still didn’t get it. Finally somebody called up someone that could speak English. Somehow the road construction issue was resolved and a designated driver jumped on his scooter and showed me the way to Kursk highway. When he stopped he pointed to the sign that said "Kursk". I thanked him and shook his hand. All the time he was leading me to this sign, I was thinking of something I could give him. I have nothing. For those kind gestures of help I wish I had something from America I could give people but I have nothing and no place to carry anything. So I’m thinking about not having any Russian rubles and if I had a problem or needed gas etc. I’d be in big trouble with no money. I rolled into Kursk with no problems and decided I better stop and see if I can find a bank ATM. I stop at an auto parts store and gas station which says BankoMat and ask about a ATM. Actually I showed them my 3 x 5 card Mary made up for me before I left home in cryllic asking about an ATM. I’m telling you in less than thirty seconds five people were in the conversation talking. Finally a short little lady surfaced and said an ATM is about a quarter mile up the road in a shopping center. I think she was the cleaning lady. I believe her boss said to walk on up there and show the American where the ATM is. As we walked out the door the lady said not to worry about my motorcycle, but I was a little concerned being that far away from it with it unlocked and my helmet hanging on it. By the time we get there I’ve work up a sweat with all my riding clothes on. That little lady hoofed it right along. Anyway, I was able to purchase 2000 rubles in 50 ruble denominations. That was forty paper bills about a ½ inch thick in my wallet. God, how I hate having people see me taking that much money out of an ATM machine and watching me put my wallet away. I can only think someone is going to club me over the head someday when I do that. So we walked back to the gas station at the same pace. Now I was really steaming inside my riding suit. I visually checked my bike from a distance and nothing had moved; that made me happy. I had rubles in my pocket and wanted to show some appreciation to the business and to the little lady. A lady walked out of a back room and spoke to me in good English. I wanted to purchase a map of Kursk to prevent ever getting lost like when I was in Kiev. So I picked up two of the Kursk maps and she says to come back in the room and we talk. I told her about my trip and she told me she was a professional painter and had her paintings exhibited in New York City. She said she travelled and lived in the U.S. for six months and that's why she can speak pretty good English. This lady also showed me where my hotel was on the map and how to get there. I was so happy about that. I gave her one of my cards and bought one of the city maps for future use. Before departing I also bought the little lady a liter of Pepsi for her help in finding the ATM machine. I said goodbye to everybody before I left, shook the owner/manager’s hand, and departed a little happier with some money in my pocket.

I noticed since I entered Russia there are some different driving techniques. Not bad, just different. I found the hotel without problems. I purchased a room, got my passport registered and unloaded my motorcycle. I immediately started thinking about what has to be done while I’m here. I need to change my Ukraine money to Russian rubles, purchase motorcycle insurance and green card and purchase Russian maps and continue updating my blog. I quickly exchanged my Ukraine money and made arrangements to purchase insurance tomorrow. The map question is still open and blog is progressing. I did something I never did. I ordered room service and ate a spaghetti and ham dinner at about 10:00 p.m. I went to bed.